Modern beautician uses widely different acids. They are actively used in salons, contain the composition of the professional cosmetics, including creams, lotions and tonics for home applications.
Acids are natural components of the skin and participating in the processes of cell metabolism and gas exchange. Decreased concentration autologous acids with age interferes with the normal life activities of cells and becomes a factor in the body the aging process. Professional procedures and home care to compensate for their loss and support the necessary concentration of the desired skin metabolism. In this case, is the most frequent case of using alpha - and beta-hydroacids.
Carbon acid facelift
A group of carbon acids enters the broad, not strongly acidic substances merged with the contents of their in the composition of the carboxy groups. Thanks to the many different features, many of them are successfully applied in aesthetic medicine and for the production of cosmetics products.
|Types of acids||Example||Features||Application|
|Emulsifiers, stabilizers||Based on these acids has created a lot of variety of toilet soaps. Acids and their esters used in the production of cosmetics as stabilizers in emulsions.|
|To offset the lack of an epidermal lidid account, strengthen the epidermal barrier. By creating a protective layer that prevents moisture evaporation of the skin. Is antioxidants.||Included the night and day creams, milk cleans the skin.|
The dairy industry
Pyruvic and other
|Remove the hyperkeratosis of an, shall create conditions to improve the skin rejuvenates. Stimulates ceramides, collagen fibers. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.||Concentrations up to 10% is used in cosmetic tools: moisturizer, cream, näovesi , s.h. also for home maintenance. In high concentrations, shall apply only salon in the conditions to organize exfoliation' - and surface water shells.|
|Beta-hydroacids(IGV, a-acid)||Salicylic||Peel the horny layer, reduces sebum production, eliminates pollution for a long time. Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory effect.||Are used in shells: itself as exfoliant or as a basis for a complex honey cream - Gessner or retinoic. Allowed creams, lotions, tonic for oily and problematic skin.|
|Polyhydroxylated (RNA)||Gluconic acid||It has high molecular mass, is more sustainable impact, does not cause irritation. Prevention of aging, stimulates elastin production, restoring the skin's protective barrier. Blocks up to 50 percent of the UFO-radiation.||On the anti-age skin care program heightened sensitivity.|
|Trichloroacetic acid(TCA)||Penetrates the skin deeper, if puuviljahapped. Principle - coagulation protein.||En medio TCA peeling.|
Fruit AHA-acids, water -, and BHA - fat-soluble. This is the fundamental difference determines the implementation of the acid in cosmetology. The most famous BHA-acid - salicylic - penetrates through the lipid barrier to deeply in the pores, so it is possible to affect the sebaceous glands and reduce excessive activity. The main aspect of this assignment - for the treatment of acne scars and black spots, rejuvenation of oily and problematic skin. AHA-acids for more suitable skin care products in photodamage, pigment spots, age hyperkeratosis and dry. Polyacids RNA determine if sensitive skin is stress can, lower the local immunity.
Glycolic acid facelift
Glycolic cosmetics is the most effective and therefore the most understood of all AHA-acids. Great popularity, he has received after it has proven its ability to activate the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen in the dermis. Additional plus glycolic acid - a relatively inexpensive production of sugar cane. Dermatologists medical university Wakayama (Japan) the proven performance of high concentrations of this substance to treat severe acne. Glycolic acid facelift also successfully applied to enhance the level of stimulus to all the layers of skin.
E. I. Hernandez in his book "Cosmetic peeling" refers to several authoritative studies have kosmetoloog psychology, which talked about the application of glycolic acid concentration as a function of:
- Daily maintenance using a cream 5% glycolic acid a period of three months improves skin complexion. The effects were statistically confirmed in several types of control measurements.
- The content of hyaluronic acid in the matrix rises after the skin treatment with 20% glycolic acid twice a day for a period of three months. Also fixed the expression of the gene of collagen, which proves that the increase of its synthesis.
- The thickness of the skin, provided the application of this liquid content of 25% glycol-to six-month period increased 25 percent. The researchers observed increased epidermal layer, the growth of the concentration of mucopolysaccharides, improve the density of collagen and the state of the elastin in the dermis.
- Weekly, 50% glycol-to-four-week period significantly improve the skin structure. Reduces squamous and increase in the granular layer of the epidermis, loss of the symptoms of porokeratosis. In many cases, biopsy of the registered seal of collagen in the dermis.
Lactic acid cosmetic
Second place in the popularity and knowledge of cosmetics worth the lactic acid. Also, as is glycolic acid, this substance is a good peeled off effect and helps to eliminate the signs of Chrono - and fotovananemise. Degrees of efficiency of lactic acid to slightly smaller, but the risk of possible irritation in his application below.
Lactic acid is considered the more physiological of the skin. Its molecule one atom more molecules of glycolic acid, so they are slower and more evenly penetrate the epidermis and destroy the intercellular connection. The milk acid environment prevents pathogenic bacteria development, increases the protective non mantle and strengthens skin immunity. These attributes, along with lower aggressiveness justify the application of lactic acid facelift on patients who have sensitive problem skin. This concentration of media in the home care lies in the range of 3.5 to 10 percent.
Amber acid in cosmetics is called refreshing elixir to mature skin. It makes excessive pigment, nourishes and balances the skin cover. Succinic - a powerful catalyst for the synthesis of ATP acid (ATP), playing an important role in the cell exchange. Thanks to these properties of succinic cosmetics in many anti-age program, which means that the home care for aging skin. Is the source of life-giving forces, that hair.
Lipoic acid facelift
Lipoic acid in cosmetics is not the exfoliant. He is recognized as a powerful antioxidant, the overwhelming activity in the wide range of free radicals important causes of skin aging, wrinkles formation and pigmentation. The high efficacy of lipoic acid is due to its ability to dissolve and water and lipid environment, which is favorable to distinguish him from many other antioxidant compounds, especially vitamins C and E. at the same time he will not block their effects and strengthen it.
Lipoic acid (vitamin N) prevents the processes of glycation, during which the connection of collagen fibers with the molecules of glucose and decreased activity elastin. He has repeatedly speeds up metabolism and slows down the glucose to melt the facial skin. Early access to the beautician and the regular application of the means of lipoic acid have observed the reversibility of the process of glycation and decrease signs associated with aging changes.
Lipoic acid facelift also successfully applied in the treatment of scars, acne, acne and the effects of rosacea. It normalizes the sebaceous glands activity, reducing the expression long in the skin, restores the cell membrane and protects the DNA from aggressive external environment.
Salicylic acid facelift
Powerful peel - the main advantage of salicylic acid in cosmetology. This is the most common IGV, acid, which can dissolve the link from the Cornea cells even in the depths of the long, i.e. to destroy the comedones. In parallel he is a derivative of aspirin reduces inflammation, lowers infectious disease processes and accelerate improvement. Total anti-bacterial properties and the effect of deep cleansing determine the application of salicylic acid in cosmetology to use for oily problematic skin. The concentration of salicylic acid creams, tonic in a home application may not exceed two percent.
The application of the methods of acids in cosmetology
First of all, acid salon beauty therapy is used in the form of shells.
1. Peeling and superficial peels AHA-acids
Communication hyperkeratosis in many diseases of the skin has been proven that the more 80-ies of the last century the first scientific studies according to the AHA. Removal of old sarvkihi of the acids is considered to be the most secure procedure. Correctly matched with the concentration of alpha-hydroacids do not cause burns to skin and gently destroys the desmosomes - resistant intercellular community of Horny cells.
The later has proven the ability of the AHA-acids penetrate deeper into the sarvkihi and to stimulate the active processes in the skin. This is due to the dissolved tight coupling of the use of the achieved particularly arise microcirculatory riverbed, through which the skin deep into the layers easier to penetrate the second active substances, which is caused by the closing stages in the procedure.
The effect is stratified, and the penetration depth of the acid depends on its concentration and ph:
- small - 5 to 10 percent, a ph of 2-3;
- average - 20 to 30 percent, a ph of 2-3;
- large - 50 to 70 percent, a ph of 4-5.
A small concentration of the acids is allowed to the home application, the middle and high equal medicinal resources, is determined only by the doctor-cosmetologist related to the testimony and used in the professional procedures in the clinic or in the cabin.
The positive changes from the peeling AHA-acids do not come immediately. A noticeable effect is necessary to 6-10 procedure, the interval of once every 7 to 14 days. But the result of a course of the skin to reach the full upgrade without hard rehabilitation, flaking and serious post-gluma risks.
2. Kartulikoori of the IGV,
Peels, salicylic acid commonly used to treat acne is a disease acne scar and scar of acne, leveling the skin relief. This acid belongs to configurations are a powerful anti-aging cream, in many cases, is used as a conductor of retinoic. Salicylic peel - the current rescue persons who are 4 and 5 phototypes of skin. Acting as a mild exfoliant, it does not cause post-gluma complications dark people.
3. Medium peels acids
The mechanism of action of hydroacids do not allow them to penetrate the middle layer is the epidermis even if the increase in concentration. So in order to more thoroughly update the skin apply to the other types of acids. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) coagulate in the proteins, causing a controlled chemical burn. The repair process takes place in the active regeneration and proliferation of cells such as epidermis and dermis. Pure retinoic acid - a derivative of the vitamin And the process of peeling interacts with the fibroblasts, increase their activity and thus enhances elastin synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Cosmetics with acids
A small concentration of the fatty acids belong to the complexes to a professional aesthetic care and cosmetics home. Regular use of similar tools will cause a softer, but stable result.
Fatty acids due to the nutrient characteristics of growing based dense creams. Amino acids - the parts of the proteins are important that the production of the active components of the skin matrix and are suitable for all skin types. The weak form of the retinoid acid-containing creams and serums rejuvenation treatment for acne, rosacea and dermatitis.
Hydroxy acids useful for all ages and included in the union of creams, tonics and serums. Salicylic acid is the most frequently occurring cosmetics for young, oily and problematic skin.
Regular exfoliation after 40 - a necessary condition for old age care. A mandatory condition for the use of medicines hydroacids - protection against solar radiation, which is why many of them contain UV filters.
The vehicle, even in the low acids are recommended to use under medical supervision. Buy them easier is this beautician, who is program thin to. Many professional medications can use both in the cabin as a home, so be sure to check the receipt of the acids the skin is more convenient.